Several different kinds of rice feature in culinary excursions. All, except for North American wild rice, are Oryza sativa — the only domestic species of rice in the entire world. Black rice, red rice, glutinous rice, long-grain rice, short-grain rice: they are all Oryza sativa, which has over two thousand varieties.
What is Japanese Rice?
Japonica, the Japanese variety of rice, exists in a normal sticky form or its much more extremely glutinous form. Sticky rice grains are helpful when eating with chopsticks, while glutinous rice is cooked and pounded into a mass called mochi, used to make sweet cakes or eaten on its own with soy sauce and sugar. Newly harvested grains are the stickiest, since they contain the most moisture, while slightly older grains are the best for sushi as they allow the absorption of the vinegar mixture.
The two best genetic varieties of japonica are koshi-hikari from Niigata Prefecture and akita-komachi from Akita Prefecture. Japonica is also grown in California, which exports rice around the world — to the Middle East, the Mediterranean and even back to Asia. The California Rice Exchange lists eight varieties of japonica: Calrose, M-401, Akita, Koshi, Sweet, Short-grain, Long-grain, and Organic. If one is really pinched, pudding rice (a short-grained rice grown in Italy and widely available in Europe) can be substituted, though it has none of the exquisite aroma and texture of Japanese or California rice — in fact, it tastes vaguely like rice pudding, for which it is marketed!
Cooking Japonica on a Gas Flame
Measure out the rice and wash well first because it is often coated with talc to protect against humidity. To do this, barely cover the rice with water, then swish it around by hand to rub the grains together; pour off the milky water, swish the grains together again without water, and then repeat as many more times as it takes until the water runs clear.
The brand name Nishiki, marketed around the world as sushi rice by JFC International Inc. in Los Angeles, is described on the package as “musenmai”; unless one knows Japanese, this remains a mystery, but it means “no-washing rice”. The first step of washing the rice is eliminated, and in exchange, 1.3 cups of water are needed for 1 cup of rice (see below for equivalent units). But the traditional washing method is still possible. If so, then…
Drain the rice of all water, and then re-add water to exactly equal the amount of dry rice (180ml is the standard amount for one person’s serving). Cover the pot. If you have a rice cooker, it will do all the rest for you. Electric stoves are not very good for the traditional method described below; gas is best.
An onomatopoeic Japanese poem will also help:
Hajime wa toro toro - At first , low boil
Naka pappa - In the middle, fast boil
Akachan ga naku tomo, futa toru na - Even if the baby cries, don’t lift the lid
A rough translation in cooking terms is:
- Heat the rice on a low flame until the water starts boiling, ca. 10-15 minutes.
- Raise the heat to boil a little faster for ca. 15 minutes.
- Never lift the lid while cooking.
How to tell when the rice is finished cooking? This might need experimentation with the timings to accommodate the pan size and amount of rice made. Keep a close eye on the steam during the fast boil. When it ceases, or when the steam turns to mild smoke (fan it towards your nose to find out), turn the heat off! Then let the rice sit (don’t lift the lid yet) for ten minutes — but no longer. At that point, remove the lid and cut and overturn the rice several times with a wooden spoon dipped in water (so the rice won’t stick to it). It can now be served or seasoned for sushi.
Remember, koge, the slightly browned rice crust on the bottom of the pan, is a homely delicacy! Scrape it off and crunch away, but don’t use it for sushi.
Seasoning Japanese Rice for Sushi
Nobuko Sen’s cookbook from the Japanese publisher Housewife’s Companion (Shufu no Tomo) specifies two different ways to season rice for sushi. These recipes differ for eastern Japan (Kanto) and western Japan (Kansai), since tastes traditionally vary between these areas. For 4 cups (1 cup = 200ml) of uncooked rice (see above for cooking instructions), the seasoning will be:
Kanto: 1 tablespoon salt (15g) and 1 teaspoon sugar (3g) mixed into 5.5 tablespoons rice vinegar (82.5g) until completely dissolved
Kansai: 1 tablespoon salt (15g) and 5 tablespoons sugar (15g) mixed into 5.5 tablespoons rice vinegar (82.5g) until completely dissolved
It is obvious that westerners like their food sweet!
Mixing the seasoning into the rice has its own rituals; see them on video by Reiko Hashimoto in London, owner of the Hashi cooking school. However, her instructions for making the rice itself differ from the traditional way cited above; try both and see which is best for you, according to the variety of japonica you can obtain.
Japanese Sushi Rice, a Summary
Japanese and Californian rices are best for sushi, even if they are not explicitly labeled for such; short-grained Italian rice can be substituted for these rices for a meal but is best not used for sushi. Without a rice cooker, rice can be successfully cooked in a covered pot over an adjustable gas flame by following the above instructions; electric stoves/hobs are not very accurate nor adequately responsive (but can be tamed with effort). The recipes for sushi rice seasonings vary between eastern and western Japan; try them both, then decide which you or your guests like better.
References
Sen, Nobuko (1978) “Jitsuyo Shiriizu: Kukkingu Ressun Nihon Ryori.” Tokyo: Shufu no Tomo [Housewife’s Companion].
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